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Milan

After a week of personality driven collections here in London, it was up to the Milanese catwalks to crystallise the spring 09 trends we saw emerging over in New York a fortnight ago.

The 1980s have shone through in the deluge of jumpsuits at both New York and London, and Dolce and Gabbana led the way for the power dressing decade with exaggerated shoulders - similar to those we saw at Balenciaga two seasons ago - on bright satin dresses. The Italian duo also sewed circular discs of fabric in contrast coloured panels onto shoulders to add more upper body focus.

All in ones are cementing their position as the piece no shop should be without next spring, and Roberto Cavalli showed his billowing with tribal prints, alongside decoratively printed mini dresses and ethereal floral print maxis. Bottega Veneta offered a more casual, slouchy version of the jumpsuit, complete with micro collar and safari influence, while Jil Sander‘s catsuits were super tight and sexy, covered in looped tassels.

Tassels were just one of the many surface effects designers opted for to add texture to collections. Alberta Ferretti fringed bed time style dressing gowns and satin bustiers in an ultra feminine collection of satiny fabrics, while both Prada and D&G added crunchy sweet wrapper style fabrics into their mix. Prada’s demure cowl neck pencil skirt suits in muted shades of slate grey and maroon were juxtaposed with crushed golden shifts and cropped trousers, while D&G showed a nautically saturated collection of anchor prints, striped jersey tops and knotted rope motifs, all finished off with a set of billowing maxi dresses overlaid with corrugated gold and silver capes.

The floral prints which led the trend charge for spring 08 were largely absent from the Milanese catwalks. Instead, designers opted to move the look on by replacing print with appliqué and rosettes. Burberry added mini structured florals onto loose fit jackets in a sludgy shade collection of dip dye trenches, asymmetric cardigans and wet-look dresses, while Moschino used layers ofsatin to create floppy blooms which sat on the shoulders of glossy boiler suits.

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