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Pitti spring 20: Givenchy

As the sun set over the h Florentine hills, the Pitti crowds made their way to the luxurious Villa Palmieri for British designer Clare Waight Keller’s first standalone menswear show at the helm of French fashion house Givenchy.

As Pitti’s guest designer for the spring 20 season, the show had a fittingly Florentine setting. The villa’s expansive, elegant gardens, dotted with romantic limestone statues, blooming roses and labyrinth hedges, were the backdrop for a collection that took inspiration from classical imagery and menswear tradition, but added a technical twist. The result was an elevated, urban collection that spoke to the evolving streetwear influence of the luxury menswear market, and the appreciation of heritage luxury traditions in equal measure.

Waight Keller dubbed the collection “Nouveau Glitch” : romantic, baroque ideas combined with the hyper modern. This came through in an offer that paired impeccably tailored suiting in relaxed 1990s-inspired silhouettes with gleaming white, chunky trainers – part of an exclusive collaboration with Japanese sportswear brand Onitsuka Tiger that went on sale the morning after the show.

Skin-tight cycling tops, utility jackets and boxy cargo trousers were created in fluid lightweight fabrics with floral, delicate patterns and a muted and classic palette of soft tonal colours inspired by Italian frescoes.

As ever for Givenchy, the accessories were also a standout. Oversized totes and hiking backpacks featuring both baroque and punk detailing – pearl embellishments alongside chunky chains.

Following on from guest designers Y/Project, Craig Green and JW Anderson – Waight Keller’s menswear range represented a luxury menswear market on the move – with the sportwear and tailoring equally at home on even the most historic fashion houses.

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