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London Fashion Week: day five, buyer diary

As the spring 19 edition of LFW draws to a close, MyTheresa fashion buying director Tiffany Hsu shares her highlights from the womenswear shows this season

Tiffany hsu, fashion buying director, mytheresa

Tiffany hsu, fashion buying director, mytheresa

Why do you attend LFW?

London has always been the hub of new and creative talent. We have some incredible British designers who always create a buzz here first – from the mainstay brands such as Burberry to Erdem, to new talent such as Rejina Pyo.

Are there any LFW brands currently perform well for you?

I think the big players such as Simone Rocha, JW Anderson, Erdem and Christopher Kane are always on our radar, especially as they perform well with our global customers. With the return of Victoria Beckham to London and the new lead of Riccardo Tisci at Burberry, there are some really exciting players to watch here.

What are you looking for in the shows this season?

We are always seeking new talent, but ultimately look for the key “it” pieces that we know will sell out with our customers. It’s about identifying styles we know our customer will love, but also what is popping up via street style and seeing what micro-trends will be important to pick up.

I was so looking forward to seeing Victoria Beckham’s return to London, which is so important to enriching London’s line-up.

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Burberry

Burberry was of course on everyone’s radar, and is definitely highlighting a new and fresh mood in London.

How was day five of LFW?

There is always a high international presence here. The highlight for us was Richard Quinn, whom we’ve been following for some time. In general, the mood in London is always upbeat and exciting.

What collections stood out this season?

For day five, it was Richard Quinn. In general, I loved JW Anderson – his nod to minimalism but in a very detailed way was really striking. Victoria Beckham was a natural highlight – there were so many beautiful tailored pieces and wearable styles in new iterations. Finally, Tisci’s Burberry was modern and chic with Riccardo’s signatures, but kept the heritage and integrity of Burberry, which was important.

Quin rtw ss19 0443

Richard Quinn

Are there any trends emerging from the collections so far?

Victoria Beckham truly channelled minimalism in a fresh way for her 10th anniversary, as did JW Anderson with minimalist silhouettes combined with heavy detailing – we saw fishnet at both of these brands as a small focus detail.

Roksanda focused on open-back details and voluminous silhouettes – it was incredibly elegant, full of details and geometric layering. In contrast, we saw a more sexy 1990s vibe at Christopher Kane and David Koma, and references to Victoriana with romantic veils at Erdem and Simone Rocha.

In colours, we saw a lot of muted pastels mixed with beige, almost in a mid-century furniture colour palette, particularly at Preen by Thornton Bregazzi and Rejina Pyo.

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